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“ Authentic
Thai are for wimps!”

Thai food is Thai
food. If the chef or restaurateur need to tell you it’s
authentic, original or traditional…then smile,
do the “wai”(clasp your hand and bow), walk
backwards and leave. If a qualification is in order,
then it’s only when it’s fake, fusion, aga-aga
or wannabe. But its kinda hard to find an Aga-Aga Fusion
Thai Restaurant.
So,
what’s this P&P Authentic Thai Restaurant?
I smell insecurity in this full fledged Thai kitchen
located in a ..umm…coffee shop, that doesn’t
sell som tum(papaya salad), khao niao (sticky rice)
khai yang (bbq chicken) and red chili paste tom yam.
Firstly, an encounter
with the owner, Mr Peter De Luze, a 47 year old dark
complexioned Eurasian with a Chinese Peranakan mother,
who sells her Nonya style nasi lemak by the side of
the eatery in the heart of Little India.
So I gawk at them
in disbelief, what with the “Authentic Thai”
sign hanging above them, wondering how much more south
will the interview get. But alas, a saving grace came
in the form of Ms Supaporn Ratanapech, a shiny, sparkling
and spunky 30 year old chef they all nicknamed Pook.
She’s also the “boss wife’, so the
humble logic of joining Peter and Pook saved me the
pain of rationalizing the P&P name.
But so what, I reckoned
they need to explain, if not apologise for the “authentic”
qualification, as their sign says.
“My stuffed
chicken wing hah, two cook already leave in one month
because I say must make like that means must make like
that…no short cut wan!” offered Pook. So
when I sunk into the their signature stuffed chicken
wing…lo and behold, it was filled with lovely
harmuk, (Thai otah) which fattened the de-boned wing,
with skin intact, well battered and fried to a crisp.
“They all say cannot tahan the manual handwork
and ask me how I make money like that” said Pook
with a hint of bahasa nonya now that she’s been
here long enough and is already a PR. But it’s
not cheap, seven bucks each, but big in size and flavour,
nicely presented and worth it.
“Some
more, I only use the vegetable and herbs that I only
know how to use. Like I use the saw-blade coriander,
Thai galangal, small Thai garlic and lemon grass. If
cannot get, then I don’t cook lah!” she
professes, which explains the purity in their clear
seafood tom yam nam sai soup lifted with Thai galangal,
lime, nam prik ki nu suan (farmer rat dropping chili..which
describes the shape) and a good dose of Thai and saw-blade
coriander. The prawns are decently big enough for a
coffee shop eatery but I wondered if they did not pound
more nam prik into the soup base for fear of being too
“authentic” and too spicy. And if you fancy
the gorgeous looking Thai fish cake (as shown in their
picture menu), you might as well bite hard onto a plate
and forget about it as you scream knowing they’ll
never serve it. They had not been able to get the Thai
“pla kai” fish that’s commonly used
back in Thailand to make the fish cake.
Pook says she still
pounds every herb and spice and if the crowd gets too
big and fast for her…”too bad, they have
to wait”.
I cornered Peter.
I asked if saying so in their sign means others aren’t
authentic and WHAT’S YOUR QUALIFICATION, MR ADVERTISING
BUSINESSMAN? He yada-yada-ed on about his eight month
stint in Thailand ( I know some taxi drivers with “stints”
that totalled more than that and they weren’t
even based there and can’t tell the difference
between pad thai and cha kway teow.) and about checking
out the street Bangkok cze cha stalls at Fang Kun and
Intramara, just outside Bangkok. Of course it all makes
sense when it was done with Pook, who once helped her
sister and mother operate a very popular roadside Thai
cze cha stall at Sukhumvit Soi 31 in Bangkok.
 
“Today still
got big people send their big car driver there to packet
50-100 packet everyday one.”, as she recalls hating
the stint there as a teenager “no choice and very
hot some more.” But then she got her fairly tale
marriage of asmall Thai town girl princess tying down
with slick town Singaporean. Within a month of wedded
bliss in tai-tai-dom, she got bored. So she headed for
Geylang, not knowing what it stood for, and began to
hawk some of her dishes to Thai “workers”
there. It was a hit and she quickly set up a stall in
Lor 34 Geylang. Two years on, they got bored again and
closed for golf and recuperation.
Then
it itched again. And they returned here, after two years
of golf and holiday and “figuring out the business”.
With pride, she tells me her fried belachan rice is
fragrant, not smelly and she does not use lap cheong
(Chinese sausage) but sweet meat marinated forever in
sugar and fish sauce. And yes, the rice did have the
fragrance and not the stink from the use of …again,
non Thai belachan. Surrounded with cut chillies, long
beans, shredded fried eggs and sweet meat, it was good
value at five bucks.
Then she pounded the
Thai drum and brought out the yum voon sen (glass noodle
seafood salad) and nearly killed me. Her claim to why
this was the real mc-coy was kinda arty farty...”balance
in sweet, sour and spicy”, until it swam in my
palate. Now it explains why some other Thai eateries
serve it Little Thailand instead of the Thai Kingdom
style. You know there are chillis, lemon grass, fish
sauce, galangal, a dash of stock and coriander in there,
but you can’t quite taste any one in particular,
they all ganged up for a third flavour to give the zinging
sting a BOOM!
So if you want
to feel the real deal from any Thai eatery then think
Mah Boon Krong, Rama 4, Chatuchak and the Four Faced
Buddhas. Get into the groove and taste it for proof.
Don’t let signs, looks and picture menus distract.
Ooh don’t get me onto these food court pictures…

P&P Authentic Thai Restaurant
Address
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Blk 57 Geylang
Bahru #01-3491
Tel: 81571245
11am to 10pm daily except Sundays
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