Look around today- smell, see and pay attention to the makan that’s offered in every other spanking new mall or at your favourite food street. You see Japanese ramen set ups, smell the Taiwanese something brisket stew, be entranced by artsy hamburgers, those ubiquitous foreign coffee joints and even budget steak cafes. Although we are a nation of migrants, and have a penchant and palate for all things new and exciting, I get this sinking feeling (and I’m almost a yard under) that the original heritage flavours that once permeated this land is going, going….(almost gone), especially the old dialect Chinese eateries. It is very hard to spot new authentic Cantonese, Teochew, Hokkien, Hakka or even more rarely, Hainanese restaurants (I don’t know of any true blue Hainanese restaurants here).

Which is why I am happy to be appointed this year’s consultant for The Singapore Food Festival happening through much of July. I get to re-ignite the fast dimming candles the once lit our food culture because of this year’s theme- Chinese dialect food. One of my tasks is to ensure authenticity, like to address why is our fried Hokkien mee different from Malaysia and which part of Fujian in China did it come from, or, is the Abacus Seeds (suan pan zi or yam gnocchi) dish, a distinct signature among the entire Hakka community? And how did fried breakfast cereal got mixed with butter prawns. One of the events in this year’s festival, which we am excited to offer, is the Makansutra SFF Masterclasses, where I got to choose some of my favourite dialect food masters and present them in culinary workshops. I had the pleasure to work with them and their menus and pick out the authentic, wonderful and rare dialect dishes, dust them up, polish and shine it, and then place them on the pedestal in both demonstration and hands-on culinary workshops.

Look forward to mastering the Heavenly Chef’s Deep Fried Golden Pearls, a prawn, salted egg yolk and liver tempura ball.

When the folks at the Dragon Phoenix restaurant suggest the dredge up an ancient Cantonese Shunde Wild Pheasant dish, I was riveted, especially with the twist in execution, something that was a part of the dish’s heritage. It will be conducted by no less than the last two remaining of the Four Heavenly Kings, Mr Sin Leong and Mr Hooi Kok Wai(with his son Chris), both Masters are pushing 80 years of age and may not have too much energy to do these things often anymore. You will also get to know, once and for all, the secrets behind the iconic Hokkien Kong Bak Pau (beats a burger any day) as revealed by Mr Goh Eng Gee of Bee Heong Palace Restaurant. As we know, the art of a good fried rice is in the “fry” part, and Frnacis Yeo of Tian Jin Hai restaurant, the chef that floored Anthony Bourdain with his steamed shark’s and chili crabs, will pore over the art of “wok hei” behind a loose and well seared Teochew Olive Fried Rice in a hands-on culinary workshop.

I would rather learn how to make Bee Heong Palace’s Kong Bak Pau
than a hamburger

If you have older aunties or parents who held wedding banquets in the once decadent Lai Wah Restaurant, you’ll be glad to hear the are still up and about and owners Mr Wong Kah Onn, his wife Helen and head chef “Ah Tee” will be demonstrating a fading icon, the Cantonese Tam Ji Kai (special braised chicken) and a comfort dish- Claypot Brinjals with salted fish and lean meat. Mr Lee Jin Kun of Xing Hua Hometown Cuisine will execute his clear Heng Hwa style Lor Mee, which will help you spell out the difference over the Hokkien version.

I will be demonstrating how “Vanishing Dishes” like
the Cantonese Lo Kai Yik is made

We’ve also lined up Mr Lai Fak Nian of Plum Village Restaurant, one of the last bastions and vanguards of Hakka cuisine here, to show exactly how an authentic hometown Yong Taufu is made- detailing the minced meat marinate, the art of stuffing and the two-heat cooking strategy. I am also glad to introduce, together with Mr Liew Choy of Keng Eng Kee, a newer style Cantonese dish- the Deep Fried Marmite Soft Shell Crabs.

As for me, I show how the breakfast cereal got mixed with prawns and even how coffee married up with prime ribs as well as sweetening the deal with Durian and Banana Pengat.

Do check out workshop details, and more of the Singapore Food Festival, at www.singaporefoodfestival.com.sg. And by the way, “abacus seeds is not a common thread among all the Hakkas. There are seven sub group Hakka communities back in China, and all have their favourite comfort food icons”, say Mr Lai Fak Nian.

For more information about Makansutra SFF Culinary Classes, please click here