If all you’ve ever done when you make that leisurely trip to Katong was to line up at Aston’s steak shop for his value meal rib eye meals or to have a bowl of laksa, then you don’t know your Katong from your Tanjong Katong. Sure, it’s about rows and rows of quaint Peranakan pre-war houses and lots of en-bloc redevelopment projects, but behind those pretty walls and streets lie a story that’s fading and a heritage that will soon be history. Katong is not just about Peranakan food and old houses.

For this week’s exploration exercise, let’s peel into the deeper layers of what this Nonya square can offer. Bring along your compact camera and record a slice of history. Folks who’ve had snaps of the defunct strangely shaped National Theatre at River Valley Road, or even the old National Museum at Stamford Roadwill know just how valuable and meaningful those snaps can be. It is an image of our history and era of our lives.

A performer awaiting and getting into her moment
at a show in The Malay Village

Begin your trip at the Paya Lebar MRT station in the late morning at around 10am. Saunter across to what’s left of the Malay Village at 39 Geylang Serai. On weekends, they offer cultural shows which include Balinese dances. Read about out first President Yusof Ishak at the exhibiton hall of great Malay leaders in Singapore. On weekdays, it is a tad quiet but go observe that silent eeriness in the footways between the weathered old little kampong huts and structures housing food stalls and souvenir shops. Take as many pictures as you can, including the pretty community building with an ornately curved staircase at the back. This place is set of redevelopment, it’ll soon be history..nada, gone.

When done, mosey over to the food court within the premises (Hazwani Food Junction) and breath in one of the finest satays (Warong Sudi Mampir) and a very old fashioned and well made Roti John (Hajjah Meriam) in Singapore. The satay is still done over charcoal and the meat is chunky with a rich nutty sauce. The Roti John is made simply with eggs, onions, minced mutton and pan fried till gently crispy.

Now head on to Joo Chiat Road for about one kilometer till it meets Koon Seng Road and turn left onto it. Shoot pictures of the eloborate tiles along this row of colourful pre-war Peranakan houses and collect these images as many of these tiles are regarded as museum pieces or sold as one, if anyone ever get their hands on them. Look closely at the very pretty corner house number 25. This was where they shot the horror film The Maid when it was once in a dilapidated condition. This completely reconstructed house now gives no hint of that condition it was once in.

Once dilapidated and an inspiration for The Maid movie, this is now pretty restored Peranakan at Koon Seng Road

Walk back down along Joo Chiat towards East Coast Road and turn right on it. pop into Rumah Bebe (113 East Coast Road). This is one of the last Nonya heritage shops-stick your head in and you’ll know just how colourful their culture is. Nonya Bebe Seet sells ornate jeweleries, Peranakan kebaya, trinkets and conducts beading and embroidery classes where she’ll teach you how to stitch your cool Peranakan beaded shoes in just four lessons. If that bores you, then tuck into her little selection hand made kuehs she diligent hand makes everyday. Her Apom Bokwa and Pulot Ta Ta is one of the best around and her sambal belachan is very dangerous.

One of the best Apom Bokwa I’ve had- at Rumah Bebe.

Of course you now have to walk 100 meters to the Laksa war zone at Ceylon Road. Many international food shows I’ve helped co-host love this story about how the three “warring” laksa factions came about (long story- go google it). The “skirmishes” between the Famous Katong Laksa at 49 East Coast Road, 328 Laksa just across the lane and Marine Parade Laksa across the road inside Roxy Square’s Nan Sin Food Court always churns out one winner - us, the foodies. Each of the laksa is stunningly made- rich, smooth and fragranced with seafood stock. Try all three of them, as this war is world famous.

And if all this takes you till 5pm, then go have one of the best black pepper crabs at the legendary First Grade Seafood (247 Joo Chiat Place), and yes, it’s best to beat the incredible 6pm queue that come just for their sweetly perfume and yet spicy black pepper crabs. It’s a 1.5 km walk but it’s worth every step. Trivia- these are the folks that vehemently objected to us from filming them for our Makansutra Raw show although they happily treated us to a meal there.

Head home now for the well deserved shower and rest. By the way, Tanjong Katong is the name of a road and Katong, technically does not exist- it’s a name given to this Peranakan sanctuary.