A June Food Safari
By K.F.Seetoh

It’s been a while, actually over 25 years, since I’ve had any June school holidays. In the 70s and 80s, life was a bit more easier, not much distractions, no part time jobs at fast food joints (hardly any then). The month long holiday was about long “terminal to terminal” bus rides to ulu parts of Singapore using our unlimited rides bus-pass. A picnic at Changi beach was a highlight as was the seafood meal thenafter at the former seafood row at Upper East Coast Road. Catching fishes along the streams that lead to our Macritchie reservoir and climbing trees to pluck wild rambutans to share was precious quality time with pals. Helping our neighbour Uncle Phua as a lighting assistant on his wedding video assignments always meant a feeding frenzy at later Newtown hawker centre for supper (we never ate at such events while at work). I was taught the ropes of the craft too. Flying to neighbouring countries for a holiday then was like nothing- it never occurred to me then that such things were normal then.

Oooh, what I’ll give to have that four weeks of carefree bo-chap “local” style holidays again. But I’ll share this one weekend Singapore food and play sojourn peppered with things eat, see and do. I revolve it around train stops and while some walking is required, it is part of the experience.

Begin early on a Saturday morning with a booster nasi padang meal to crank the system up at 8am, at Hajah Maimunah (11 Jalan Pisang, near Bugis MRT). Go for the works- beef rendang, eggs, sayur lodeh, grilled whole fish otah etc with rice. Then walk the carbs off, with a stroll, about 600metres to Sungei Road and catch the early vendors at the Thieves Market. Watch closely, a used PSP hiding below a used laptop may be offered at $20 if you bargain real hard. If you are observant enough, you’ll get an idea of the trinkets and knick knacks that was popular with a generation gone by. These folks buy junk collected from karang guni man but sell them as antiques, albeit cheaply.

Then head on to Ding Xing Coffeeshop at 40, Clive Street (about 500 metres away after crossing Jalan Besar.) This is a coffeeshop that stood still in time. Sip their kopi-o under this zinced roofed corner coffeeshop with jaded and tired un-matched tables and chairs with a resident old dog lying around. An old wall mounted radio provides entertainment.
Rest well, because now you have to walk a kilometre to Cuff Street, just off Serangoon Road where I suggest you find and sniff out what’s regarded as the last retail spice miller in Singapore. They will grind whatever dry spices you’ve bought and turn them into curry powder or masala. They place is dusty with spices and it looks like a moment in some slick documentary show.

But just a street away, you’ll come across Azmi Chapati at 168 Norris Road (junction with Serangoon Road). This is arguably the best chapatti in Singapore. If you’ve had enough ghee and oils from roti prata, this one will please you to no end. It’s done sans any oil and the wheat dough roti is pan seared fresh to go with vegetarian dhal or mutton curry.
Next- get off the Farrer Park MRT station. Take a deliberately slow walk down Rangoon Road, soak in the details of this old row of prewar shophouses and old two storied retail shops that line the street. If you’re imaginative, you can feel like you’re in Penang’s Georgetown. At the end of the street, you find a makan legend- Ng Ah Sio Bak Kut Teh (208 Rangoon Road). Share a bowl with your buddies and calm all that spices inside by now.

Then stroll back over to Serangoon Road and head towards Mustafa (145 Syed Alwi Road) for some serious retail therapy.
But I would rather you head to the Museum of Shanghai Toys (83 Rowell Road), where an avid fan (Marvn Chan) of old tin toys set up his dream of creating this retro iron toy shop cum museum. You can buy crank up toys like “pecking chick”or “hen laying eggs”.

This sojourn will set you back by about 4 hours and under our famous Singapore heat, it’s a good idea to head home for a cool shower. Watch out for next week’s tour right here.





 

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