I was cruising for some durians recently along Sims Avenue when a voice boomed over a backlane coffeeshop corner nearby. “Hey boss, long time no see la, you must try my new sharks fin in a steamer pot. Real fins only!”, as he was de-shelling fresh crab meat from some mid sized Sri Lanka crustaceans. I responded with some pleasantries and engaged him on the “real fins” statement and it seems that according to this quite popular cze cha stall boss, fake shark fins have been making the rounds for a long time now. While I am not a big fan of shark fins ( I concede it is nice, but only because the broth, usually chicken, is well made. It’s the thickener, the crab meat or bits of sea cucumber or fish maw with that splash of red vinegar that reels me in, I don’t care for the fins), what he said, send me on a think-and-ponder mode – as this is a status, meaning-only dish, why don’t they eat fake fins, perhaps made with starch and white fungus strips.

When the imperial kitchens created this elite, expensive and difficult to get dish for the emperor, once upon a time, it was a dish of fine imperial status, one fit for the gods. Consuming it was the definitive show of power, wealth and sense of having arrived. So for a long time now, especially at the Chinese New Year banquet tables, many imported this concept as an exercise in showing off in appreciation of the luck bestowed upon them in the preceding year. What a load of #@*%#! The fact remains, hundreds of millions in China eschew sharks fin during Chinese New Year. Their very meaningful meals, which is all about homecoming, health, family, friends and harmony, is all a big show of appreciation, not a big show off. If the emperors were still around today, I am sure they will have a field day asking for superfine ingredients that the world have come to enjoy this millemium – snow lobsters (which is an auspicious item) with white truffle sauce and Beluga caviar anyone?

The Chinese have a saying about the truly rich “like pearl covered in a haystack”. They have no need to show off and they appreciate ordinariness, so you can’t tell them apart. They know just how blessed they are and are always looking out for the less fortunate. So if you are anticipating some serious mastication this Chinese New Year season, eat meaningfully, be the enlightened feeder.

There are reasons why some dishes are must haves this festive season, and for good reason too. It’s all about perception, luck and goodwill. Fish (which represents smooth sailing) done in any style, provided it has some auspicious mumbo jumbo name, is compulsory. Prawns (which symbolise happiness and laughter) are something you must not miss too. Of course, there is abalone, one of the most exquisite show off ingredients for the season, it means “pao yue” or guaranteed success. Then, there are the rarer, seen more often at Chinese New Year banquets, items like dried oysters, black moss fungus (there is a ban of harvesting this fungus as doing so turns seemingly fertile lands arid, dry and useless, so many are resorting to man made versions), sea cucumber, dried scallops and even peanuts and melon seeds. Each of them has their meaning. Pork, which traditionally does not have any auspicious ring to its name, is the rage during the season because some genius named barbequed pork jerky “long yoke” which mean incessant blessings. The ridiculous queues for this sweet-savoury meat at Chinese New Year are legendary by now. The list of auspicious food grows each year- seen all those fantastically packed pineapple candies yet?

Tribute again to the Four Heavenly King for creating what may be the most auspicious, popular and important platter for this Chinese spring festival, the "Ho Wan Yue Sang" or the prosperity sashimi salad.

But I just want to take time out and pay tribute again to the Four Heavenly Kings (an actual award given to them by a Chinese authority of makan over 50 years ago) of cuisine in Singapore - Mr Hooi Kok Wai , Mr Tham Yu Kai, Mr Low Yoke Pui and Mr Sin Leong, for creating what may be the most auspicious, popular and important platter for this Chinese spring festival, the “Ho Wan Yue Sang” or the prosperity sashimi salad. It is truly a joy tossing that salad with friends and loved ones and no endangered species were culled in that celebration. Of course, they honeyed plum sauce made it so much more enticing.

Eat the food, digest the culture and consume in style and moderation this season. Don’t fatten up uncontrollably or the Year of the Tiger may consume you for sustenance.