A happy belated birthday, my dear Singapore, and it come from a sense of being in a Singapore I can relate to. At the onset, I’ll share that I’m one of those home loving slugs that takes a little too long to catch up with all that is modern, slick, smart, world beating and suave about us. I revel in the little pockets of lifestyle and corners of our country that the bulldozers of modernity ignored, for one reason or another. I am a sucker for nostalgia (will someone please redo or jazz up the Katina Dhahari collection of tunes). I grew up at the edge of a kampong in Geylang when it was still green (not red) and Geylang River, was actually a nice clear water stream.

Enjoy the charm and calm by this riverside spot nearby,
before the loud masses ditch East Coast Park for this place

So last Sunday, when many around the vicinity was looking out for a vantage point at some obscure area around the old National Stadium awaiting the fireworks display to illuminate our dark skies, I was burning shoe rubber at an old corner of the Kallang River that pours out to the Marina Bay. It was paved and lined with mature trees and the eyes could gaze far, if you looked hard, into the distant Shenton Way skyline. The stretch went on for miles and was perpetually shaded at every spot. In the blazing heat of late afternoon, I could stroll, two degrees cooler, in the shade with a balmy breeze whispering in my ear. The nicer part there- the boom box, barbeque party lizards and inconsiderate cyclist and bladers were no where in sight. The best part- and what I consider would complete this charming scene by the river, was makan. I mean the kind of stuff that would perfectly complement the atmosphere, preferably seafood! Heaven knew that this calming river side stretch off Tanjong Rhu would not appeal much to true blue Singaporeans if there wasn’t a food centre nearby. And as it turned out, the almost forgotten Jalan Batu food centre was just 70 meters from the riverside car park. Oh, boy, oh, joy.

Chuan Kee’s kitchen is slick, packed and efficient

I recall reading and being recommended to a little old cze cha stall in that smallish (about 50 food stalls) makan centre that was clearly created years ago as a convenience for the little community of three and four room HDB flatters there. I looked for and found Chuan Kee Cooked Food stall sitting proudly at one corner of the eatery. I can tell they run a small and slick operation. The stall layout was stacked and packed, like a little Chinese kitchen sweat shop and they offered just under 100 items in that space. They began some 30 years ago at that spot offering Hokkien cze cha goodies but over the years, had switched to Malaysian Cantonese offerings. Ah Leong, Ah Keong and Ah Loy, all, northern neighbours of us, now wield the wok. One glance at the plain yellow paper menu and I knew just what I must have. Their salted egg yolk crab takes the cake. It came fresh and well fried (although they use the smaller meat crabs from Indonesia) and the salty, chunky and powdery batter paired well with the sweet flesh. One rare item, for such hawker stalls was the cheese pork ribs – fried and rolled in a cheesy sticky sauce enhanced with curry leaves and sesame seeds. I love that they use some fattier meat.

These are the kind of crabs(salted egg yolk style) I love to see by a riverside

Manager Mr Teo Eng Hong recommended their lotus leaf duck, which I felt miss the spot. It was nicely presented but the duck was not well stewed in the sauce and the chestnuts alongside felt like aliens from Mars. I attempted their coffee ribs but I found it too sweet and caramel-ly for my liking. But for kids and fried chicken lovers, I think you will fall for the cereal crispy chicken. A big chunk of crispy battered fried chicken is splattered with some mayonnaise and then smothered in crispy cereal flakes with some sugar, salt and chilli- all simultaneously healthy and sinful. Another stunner and fave of mine, was their own-made spinach tofu, slathered with a stewed chai po(preserved radish) and mince meat sauce. It was soft, smooth, not too salty, savoury and had that pleasant itsy, bitsy texture in the sauce what would wonder around in your palate. It has to go with a bowl of steamed rice.

I adore walking off that gazillion calories in an after makan stroll about the old estate that has a pretty little fountain sitting in its midst with arena style seating around it. And that stroll by the riverside back to the car completed this Tanjong Rhu experience for me.