Food Hygiene- be your own judge and jury. |
| First it was overcharging
and now, a fatal food poisoning case. Aiyo, bad year for
our makan reputation. Although both cases have been dealt
with under law, I have my doubts as to how this can be
a turning point for the sad state of food hygiene, handling
and reputation here. Existing fines, suspension and even
revocation of licenses are not sufficient.
The public outcry on the deaths over an Indian rojak food poisoning case in Geylang Serai made me recall what a former senior civil servant from a relevant ministry said –that the decades old hawker street food licensing process and concept was meant to provide a form of basic entrepreneurship for the “down and out, and the marginalized”. He had that sincere look of compassion as he said so. The bulk of Singapore’s hawkers were once were descendants or came from a generation of the original itinerant street food vendors which plied the avenues and back lanes all over our island nation nearly a century ago. The concept of food hygiene was alien to them. The advent and creation of hawker centres in the late 1960’s was meant to clear up our streets of such unlicensed food businesses and to provide a continuum of this basic trade for these, then, opportunity-challenged folks. They simply shifted into the custom built food centres with basic ventilation, piped water and electricity, sanitation and drainage. And quite naturally, rules were flouted despite new laws on food handling and hygiene. But hawker centres soon became an institution that fed the nation, cheaply and deliciously, which, I suspect, meant that reasonable leeway had to be given to these food hawkers before revoking their licenses as both basic livelihoods and the public’s trust was at stake. I have come across many hawkers who have been suspended or had their license revoked and rightly so. But it is not fair deterrent in the fight against unhealthy practices in the kitchen. We cannot just depend on the lawmakers and its enforcers to do all the dirty work. Singapore is unique, we have in excess of 35,000 food license holders, and managing and ensuring a finite level of hygiene is a daunting task for the National Environment Agency (NEA). My heartfelt sympathies go out to the families of the two victims that succumbed to that fatal Indian rojak meal. I have patronized that stall many times in the past and I could have jolly well become victim number 151. This particular stall, which has been in the business for over two decades, is a class act. The relentless daily queues for their offerings, especially their rare stewed beef hearts, spoke volumes for their quality. Their addictive pink sauce was made with mashed sweet potatoes, flour, chillies, some masala concoction and sugar. We have even conducted food tours and safaris to that outlet. It must have been a rare oversight in food handling or kitchen hygiene that brought on this very unfortunate incident. But I have to add- no kitchen is above bacteria and germs. Even the strictest of laws and well enforced regulations can fall flat. Heston Blumenthal, the celebrated 3 Michelin starred chef in Britain was recently suspended when 40 guests fell sick after a meal in his Fat Duck restaurant one evening earlier this year. They checked the suppliers, staff(including their stool samples) and even operation details that evening, and came up with nought. His eatery is still 3 Michelin starred and is still regarded as “the best place to eat on earth” by their foodie commentators. In the US, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, an average of 5000 deaths occur each year due to food poisoning and they have one of the strictest laws on food handling. In Los Angeles, under law, you can ask for the most recent inspection report at all eateries that are rated by their authorities.
So here’s my hope- that despite food hygiene status certification issued to all food vendors and kitchens in Singapore, be your own judge. Don’t eat with your eyes wide shut, do it wide open. If you spot or suspect things are amiss with the food handling, tell them and avoid them, for your silence will be an unofficial sign of approval. There could be huge posters in every food centre that spell out what are expected of food handlers regarding basic hygiene and safe practices from NEA. This can awaken public interest in a matter that is dear to their hearts and stomach- food. Allow them a hotline or web mail to report potential violations - an act of prevention that can perhaps cure our makan hygiene ails. Lastly, re-look the criteria and up the ante for those entering this now lucrative trade of street food hawking. Exacting standards should be set and implemented even if it’s for the “down and out”. License should only be awarded upon completion of strict or stricter food handling courses and examinations. Especially now, when many hawkers are reportedly doing a roaring business in this downturn. |
