I know as much about Philippine food heritage and culture as much as, I think, Britney Spears know about, say, the Six Sigma concept (yeah, not much at all!). Frankly, gastronome wise, this land of seven thousand islands usually languishes at the near bottom of my “eat there or be really sorry” countries. The true bottom one currently, is Zimbabwe. But over the last few months, a project I am involved with there opened my palate to this fascinating nation and, naturally, had a better taste of their offerings. Pinoy food culture is what happens when you force blend the west with the east when the “twain will ne’er meet.”. You get a country which has Spanish names for Chinese food and their takeout boxes are introduced by their past western occupiers (those Asian take out boxes with flaps on top) and they are, I think, the only Asian country that still offers “chop suey”, an American Chinese vegetable dish with scraps of meat. Rice is their staple and noodles or Pancit, is to many, a side dish that goes with rice.

They have many well-loved “local” dishes like Adobo (meat stewed in soy sauce like si eu bak), Sinigang (a sour soup with meat or seafood and vegetables, much like a no-chilli tom yam or ter huang kiam chye) and Sisig, chopped pigs ears and minced meat stir fried with soy and garlic. Their iconic Lechon, is actually suckling pig, albeit done with a very good breed from Cebu. But what I think is truly unique there and ranks up there as one of their comfort dishes, and has not much links to another dish is Kare Kare, a hearty beef and tripe stew simmered in a smooth peanutty sauce with vegetables, again, not too much spices used as Pinoys are not fans of overly spicy foods. Check out the Pinoy offerings in Lucky Plaza and you’ll get a good idea.

Naturally, I availed myself to experiencing such of their makan in both street vendor class and quality and at one of their finest Pinoy food establishments.

My 150-peso Jolly Jeep meal - and worth every peso.

Street food carts called Jolly Jeep.
They are essentially stilted little steel boxes with open gaps masquerading as food kiosks. Slightly smaller than a small hawker stall, they are much like the little street side food kiosk that fed the CBD masses cheaply in Singapore in the 60s. I had the pleasure of jostling with local Pinoys to order a plate of spicy Sisig, a whole fried crispy Tilapia and a light curry chicken with rice in central Makati by the Del Rosa Ave area. It was way more than what one person usually orders there (usually a 40 pesos meal), but mine came to cost 150 pesos (about S$4.50). It was worth every cent. They served on plates wrapped with clear plastic bags which negates the need for washing and was pleasantly hygienic and systematic as turnover was high. The food is usually pre-cooked at home or at central kitchens and finished or heated up at the Jolly Jeeps. I’ll happily go back for the other dishes like their Munggo (a savoury green bean stew) in a heartbeat.

The calm entrance to the always packed Abe Restaurant at Serendra.

This is perhaps one of their finest Pinoy food establishments. Abe means “friends” in their native Kapampangan language. It was started in the name a memory of the late Emilio Aguilar Cruz, a noted academic and champion of Philippine culture. He once said “Good eating is a relative matter in which poor, rich and in-between indulge with equal degree of pleasure. To know this, you have only to watch a farmer sniff his rice and silently pass judgment on it before molding the first mouthful with his fingers.” I agree. Their busy outlet here is a very simple set up. It’s difficult to book ahead and most just sit out that half hour wait for a seat. On very table is their famed bamboo cooked rice, with soy and wood ear fungus with bamboo shoots and dried shrimps. I was particularly taken with their Mutton Adobo with popped garlic, slow stew in soy and spices and topped with crispy un-skinned garlic cloves with dried chillies. Their Prawn Sinigang is very sharp and addictive though not spicy at all. They also have an Indonesian style butterfly fried crispy Tilapia fish dipped in a fermented shrimp couscous paste. Their food is local and bold but is not meant for the average dinner budget foodie (about 4-500 pesos per head). Even their simple Sisig is done almost street style with lime and chilli.
I need to go back soon to try their Arobung Kamaru- field cricket done with tomatoes and onions.