I remember toting my old Nikon FM film camera with a 43-86 zoom lens and hitting the old streets of Chinatown in the late 70s and early 80s, well before they bulldozed away a part of my colourful childhood. The filth, smells, pollution, noise and that calm old Samsui woman touting cheap discarded vegetables over newspapers on the floor for the near penniless and the perpetual queue for a raw fish porridge stall – were all part of my multi sensory Chinatown childhood. I can still visualize the street side wet market where the turtle hawker was. He simply pried open a mid sized terrapin and sold whatever parts – skin, meat, offals etc.. customers wanted. The heart was still pounding all that while. Order a fresh chicken and the death knell would be immediately spelt for the “chosen one”- a precise slit to the throat and it was quickly lowered into a vat of boiling water before they were de-feathered. The Cantonese porridge stall always had to “tap toi” (stack tables) and lay them along the five foot walkways in front of pre-war shophouses that had not opened for the day, so impatient customers can sit amidst the chaos and din while slurping one of the smoothest fish congee available with a street side view of the bustle.

In the evenings, the Chinatown pasar malam would come alive and draw the crowds back for cheap clothings, candies, the snake oil man and his death defying potions, cheap electronics from Hong Kong and freshly grilled bak kwa.

About 25 years ago, everyone was airlifted and relocated into a swanky new Chinatown Market and Food Centre where about 500 stalls were installed for them. They sanitized the streets and brought on vendors who sold pigtail hats, laced fans and Chinese tea set souvenirs for tourist. The food centre was a hot hit, literally- badly ventilated, dank and jam packed with good and cheap food. Then about two years ago, they renovated the food center.

The most scenic spot from Chinatown Complex is just right beside stall 02-081 overlooking the busiest Chinatown junction at Trengganu Street.

Today, they are back from their temporary hiatus at Outram Road. So, what’s the buzz now. I hope nothing much, apart from the $17.3m physical cosmetic makeover, because it’s character should not be sanitized and gentrified. While I can easily spot some of the better improvements like where the most scenic spot is (beside stall 02-81 overlooking the busiest Chinatown junction at Trengganu St) or where the greenest corner (the huge airy alcove fronted by mature trees beside stall 02-118 with a view of the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple). I am saddened by some unhealthy hidden business practices still in place today. Some stalls with an “original license” are profiteering by sub-letting their stalls to the highest bidder. They still pay a ridiculously low official rentals (a few hundred bucks) and hope to sublet it for up to $3000. This in turn, drives up the cost of operations and selling price. If these folks, who were once given these licenses due to “hardship” situation, no longer need to make a living out of selling food, they should return the license and let others have a go. The authorities should preserve these licenses for a new generation of hawkers who can preserve the Chinatown culture and interview them for their intent before awarding the renewable license. I shudder thinking about how muffin and doughnut stalls will invade the place. But I am happy to report that many of my old faves are back, although as at today, only about half the stalls are open for business.