In an era when Singapore footballers ruled the fabulous Malaysia Cup roost, with banana kick curlers from the likes of S Rajagopal and Mohd Noh that wound up spinning at the back of the net, I would always alight, enroute to school at Bras Basah, two stops before. One reason was the makan fad of the day then, the red bean an-pan Japanese buns at Yaohan Plaza Singapura. Great post puberty carbohydrates.

The other was so I could pass by the little jam-packed sports shops that lined the road opposite Cathay Cinema. I had to console myself that the Laplata boots I drooled and was saving for, was still being touted at the same price at Champion Sports shop. The latest Chakravaty hockey stick and spiked running shoes was like kiddy candy to me. The leathery smells, the rubbery pong the whiff of fresh Panther shoe boxes being opened. Razzle dazzle. I suspect it is the same sensation as teens now in Sim Lim Square four-eyeballing Tevez’s volley – on the Wii and PSP screens on display. But there was one smell, amidst it all, that would stick. The same smell which would not associate this belly that is parked against the table as I write, with me to soccer, hockey or athletics. By now, it definitely seems a lie that I once breezed the century sprint under 11.2 seconds (with up-wind on my side of course.).

Back in the day: Mr Seah’s mother in the old
Rendezvous restaurant in the 1960s.

It was the smell of rendang and chicken korma. Cross the road from the Cathay Cinema then and you’ll be greeted by a cowboy saloon style eatery replete with liquor display windows and half height saloon swing doors that had an intense spicy and lemak fragrance emanating off the gaps around it. Painted on the glass frontage and on the huge main sign above it was R-E-N-D-E-Z-V-O-U-S. If you had a problem with smell, then the whole place looked and felt sleazy. To me, it was enticing. A few times, I pushed past the swing doors (I did not know, the first few times, that it was a good idea to quickly step into the restaurant after you push the swing doors, as it recoils.) and it was like in a world I could not figure. Ornate, albeit jaded tiled floors, spartan décor, spread with old marble tables and wobbly kopitiam chairs and a typical wood cashier counter where the boss would preside beside an old fashioned glass-doored Kelvinator fridge with chilled beer peeking out. It was a Hainanese kopitiam. It sold the expected- toast, coffee, beer and hot food like breaded tomato pork chops and fried noodles. But, this was a Hockchew family (who were as synonymous as the Hainanese when it came to setting up kopitiams then) and the centerpiece was a glass food display shelf with trays of nasi padang goodies.

It was relocated in the mid 80s after some forty years in the business, to give way for redevelopment. On it now stands the Hotel Rendezvous, with the iconic namesake but has nothing to do with founding Seah family of the original Rendezvous Restaurant.

Mr Seah with his trusty chef - Keeping with traditions:
Mr Seah King Ming (in front) with his trusty chef of 40years, Haji Abubakar. Much of the interior retains the old colonial feel, with marble floors and brass fittings.

They later sat in Raffles City for a good twelve years but they are now back at its original location, albeit on the second floor. “We haven’t changed much,” explains Mr Seah King Ming, the 60 year old second generation sibling inherited the reputation and business, “it’s still the old colonial marble, steel and brass look and feel.” Even the spread of brown lemak goodies in the display shelf still had the same offerings, almost. “The chef, Haji Abubakar has been with us for about forty years and is still churning out the same stuff.” Mr Seah reveals. But, I distinctly remembered the sting and bite of the rempah in the rendang, back on those days. It feels, today, like it’s been gentrified for a wider audience as a good 30% of customers are not locals. The rendang is extremely soft, rich and well spiced but the real hotcakes there are their chickens, done in four styles- korma, fried, rendang and curried. It is the first thing that entices you as you line up. They don’t fail, especially so when it was juicy and fresh. The sauce only adds to the sensation. The fish sambal (mackerel) was comfortable although not outstanding (I did qualify myself as a chilli padi devotee). Their sayur lodeh comes lighter in colour, almost plain, but it was coconut-y enough. Try a platter of their liver and gizzard curry for adventure.

Their pricing is above what you would get at the usual coffeeshop nasi padang stalls but you get an ambience and service that those won’t offer. A bowl of steamed rice, like an extra plate of chilli sambal, will cost you $1.10 each and their chicken rendang cost $7.80 a piece. Not overly exorbitant. But some of you may need some time to save for that Gola boots after a paying for a decent feast there.

Rendezvous Restaurant

Address #02-02/03, Hotel Rendezvous Gourmet Gallery 9 Bras Basah Rd

Opening Hours Lunch and dinner daily

Telephone 6339 7508