
It was one of those places which bring out the best
of selfishness, mine in particular. A place where,
just on a whim, a hunch and some half hearted suggestions
from well intended friends, I let the wind take over
and it blew me to a little seaside hideout in Thailand.
I don’t want to tell anyone about it. Not about
the pristine beaches filled with just enough hidden
creature comfort distractions to fool any modern day
explorer, nor about the ridiculously cheap fresh seafood
on a grill by the moonlit beach, on a Thai style cushion,
over a mat on the cool soft sand.
Let someone else spread this travel gospel.
Then, a reminder from above about the virtues of
selfishness. A good pal recently closed his office
shutters and decided to send the entire staff packing
off to a company holiday in Phuket in Thailand for
a well deserved break. His response, when he returned
was that “everything was so bloody expensive
and it was a rip-off. I now don’t feel as sorry
for them as I originally did over the tsunami disaster.”.
He claims prices have gone up thee-folds and service
and quality have gone correspondingly down in no small
part due to the higher rentals and operation cost
implemented by post tsunami opportunists.
It’ll be a sin if I didn’t spell out
to him that sunny Thailand isn’t all just Phuket,
Pattaya or Ko Samui..
Meanwhile, as his temperature was rising, I was baking
in the sunset while awaiting my baked tuna dinner
over a glass of Pinot white on a cushion over the
soft white sand in this island hideout not too popular
with the kiasu Singapore crowd …yet.
A thee hour ride from Bangkok takes you to the Ban
Phe jetty in Rayong where a forty minute boat ride
lands you smack in the heart of little Ko Samet or
Samet Island, which measures no more than nine kilometres
long. One dusty road, accessed by cheap rented motorbikes
or the hourly open tuck taxis, link the , at least
twenty, supremely calm beaches framed with clear blue
waters that hide a protected marine wildlife sanctuary.
It basically means a 400 baht ($16) entry fee is required
per person (if the rangers ever get to you once you
alight the boat and before you check in to one of
the numerous seaside huts, chalets and villas that
dot the beachside.)
When
you’ve settled into a little seaside abode of
your choice (which usually comes with free breakfast)
that can set you back by anything from 600-4000 baht
($24-$160) per day, then the art of doing a lot of
nothing under the sun truly begins. Then Sai Kaew
main and only town, is a stretch row of simple eateries,
internet cafes, groceries, travel and diving tour
agencies and hair salons that line either side of
the dusty main road. I could not resist the only stall
selling Kai Yang, Kao Niao and Som Tum (grilled chicken,
glutinous rice and papaya salad), a prime Thailand
national dish. I am tempted to say that the laid back
atmosphere fooled me into believing that the meal
was nicer than it really was but I am no such sucker
and I can distinguish the smokiness, texture moistness,
the marinate and the char-grilled perfection of the
chicken. It was of course made more delectable when
washed down with their national cold Chang Beer.
Saunter to the end of the road and it leads you to
the main Sai Kaew beach, where, come sunset, the beach
and deck chairs under the umbrellas quickly make way
for a few hundred straw mats adorned with Thai style
cushions placed next to candle lit low dining tables.
The numerous eateries and sand floored bars along
the 1.5km stretch of beach magically come alive at
twilight. The chilled beers and iced fresh seafood
line their counters as the chefs begin to burn the
charcoal in grillers down to that perfect smokey,
glowing heat. I sank into the cushion that called
the loudest for me.
The six crunchy grilled king prawns came at $12,
the baked whole tuna..$6, the barbequed squid…$4,
the wine…$3 a glass, the fried rice, mixed vegetables
and fruits was so cheap I forgot how much. But lying
on the cushions staring at the moon, stretching your
feet under the table pointing at the South China Sea
serenaded by the noise of sea rushing to shore, cooled
by the calming sea breeze as I slowly devoured the
meal…..priceless.
But if you are looking for seedy bars and five star
accommodation, stay away from this place. Leave us
alone!