A priceless beachside makan escapade
By K.F.Seetoh

It was one of those places which bring out the best of selfishness, mine in particular. A place where, just on a whim, a hunch and some half hearted suggestions from well intended friends, I let the wind take over and it blew me to a little seaside hideout in Thailand.

I don’t want to tell anyone about it. Not about the pristine beaches filled with just enough hidden creature comfort distractions to fool any modern day explorer, nor about the ridiculously cheap fresh seafood on a grill by the moonlit beach, on a Thai style cushion, over a mat on the cool soft sand.

Let someone else spread this travel gospel.

Then, a reminder from above about the virtues of selfishness. A good pal recently closed his office shutters and decided to send the entire staff packing off to a company holiday in Phuket in Thailand for a well deserved break. His response, when he returned was that “everything was so bloody expensive and it was a rip-off. I now don’t feel as sorry for them as I originally did over the tsunami disaster.”. He claims prices have gone up thee-folds and service and quality have gone correspondingly down in no small part due to the higher rentals and operation cost implemented by post tsunami opportunists.

It’ll be a sin if I didn’t spell out to him that sunny Thailand isn’t all just Phuket, Pattaya or Ko Samui..

Meanwhile, as his temperature was rising, I was baking in the sunset while awaiting my baked tuna dinner over a glass of Pinot white on a cushion over the soft white sand in this island hideout not too popular with the kiasu Singapore crowd …yet.

A thee hour ride from Bangkok takes you to the Ban Phe jetty in Rayong where a forty minute boat ride lands you smack in the heart of little Ko Samet or Samet Island, which measures no more than nine kilometres long. One dusty road, accessed by cheap rented motorbikes or the hourly open tuck taxis, link the , at least twenty, supremely calm beaches framed with clear blue waters that hide a protected marine wildlife sanctuary. It basically means a 400 baht ($16) entry fee is required per person (if the rangers ever get to you once you alight the boat and before you check in to one of the numerous seaside huts, chalets and villas that dot the beachside.)

When you’ve settled into a little seaside abode of your choice (which usually comes with free breakfast) that can set you back by anything from 600-4000 baht ($24-$160) per day, then the art of doing a lot of nothing under the sun truly begins. Then Sai Kaew main and only town, is a stretch row of simple eateries, internet cafes, groceries, travel and diving tour agencies and hair salons that line either side of the dusty main road. I could not resist the only stall selling Kai Yang, Kao Niao and Som Tum (grilled chicken, glutinous rice and papaya salad), a prime Thailand national dish. I am tempted to say that the laid back atmosphere fooled me into believing that the meal was nicer than it really was but I am no such sucker and I can distinguish the smokiness, texture moistness, the marinate and the char-grilled perfection of the chicken. It was of course made more delectable when washed down with their national cold Chang Beer.

Saunter to the end of the road and it leads you to the main Sai Kaew beach, where, come sunset, the beach and deck chairs under the umbrellas quickly make way for a few hundred straw mats adorned with Thai style cushions placed next to candle lit low dining tables. The numerous eateries and sand floored bars along the 1.5km stretch of beach magically come alive at twilight. The chilled beers and iced fresh seafood line their counters as the chefs begin to burn the charcoal in grillers down to that perfect smokey, glowing heat. I sank into the cushion that called the loudest for me.

The six crunchy grilled king prawns came at $12, the baked whole tuna..$6, the barbequed squid…$4, the wine…$3 a glass, the fried rice, mixed vegetables and fruits was so cheap I forgot how much. But lying on the cushions staring at the moon, stretching your feet under the table pointing at the South China Sea serenaded by the noise of sea rushing to shore, cooled by the calming sea breeze as I slowly devoured the meal…..priceless.

But if you are looking for seedy bars and five star accommodation, stay away from this place. Leave us alone!

 

 
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