When
celebrated American food humourist Calvin Trillin had
his first bite of the glorious Toa Payoh Rojak at the
Old Airport Road food centre a couple of months ago
for his piece in The New Yorker magazine, he fell silent,
expressionless. It looked like a blob of discarded greens,
messed in some sticky brown goo found at the back an
unkempt kitchen.
When life returned unto him, he responded “
I can’t remember what you said this is and I
don’t know what it is, but I can’t stop
eating it. Can I have that last piece of whatever?”.
Clearly, he was a victim of a Street Food Master.
Similar reactions to such hawkers are common.
Makansutra recently launched the Singapore Street
Food Masters 2007 award in conjunction with this year’s
Singapore Food Festival. Already into its third year,
we recognize twelve such Masters each year to essentially
serve a very meaningful cause- acknowledge, enjoy
and be dazzled by the great Singapore Food Culture.
So, on this, and pretty much any, lazy weekend, I’ll
spare you the accolades and recitations, and spin
the twelve Masters offerings into a get-off-your-lounger
and do-it-yourself Street Food Masters makan safari.
A tip: don’t attempt this alone or with stern
vegetarians.
12.15pm: Start with a hearty and piquant bowl of Tai
Wah Bak Chor Mee at Meeting Point Food Court at 12
Prince Edward Road Bestway Bldg (TV 12 bldg).
Tai Wah Bak Chor Mee
It’s rare to be able to sit out by a huge
field in a green pocket of the chaotic CBD district.
Then mosey down, by foot, (don’t be lazy) along
Maxwell Road, kaypoh a little at the Red Dot Traffic
Building (for a cuppa if you need more digestion downtime)
and then hit Lim Kee (Orchard) Banana Fritters
at stall 61, Maxwell Food Centre by 1.15pm.
Colin and his retired father were the original Goreng
Pisang heroes at Somerset Road some eight years ago.
Their crispy batter is a science and they use only
the honey sweet pisang rajahs. Do your thing in Chinatown
just across then zip over to No 18 Fried Kway
Teow at stall 17, Zion Road Riverside Food Centre
by 2.30pm. Mr Ho Kian Tat fries his perfect Cha Kway
Teow when he is under stress and in a stern mood.
So don’t ask for a smile as it can affect the
quality. Let him be. You notice the numerous flat
screen TVs all over, rare for a hawker centre. Settle
and little and cruise to Sakunthala’s
Restaurant at 151 Dunlop Street in Little India
by 3.30pm. Order specifically, the Crispy Paper Thosai.
In line with Singaporeans love for all things crispy
and light, this is a crowd pleaser. Rediscover a bit
of Little India on foot if you’ve not had the
opportunity to see it other than through your car
or bus window. Now, ride out of the tourist and into
the residential belt to Old Long House Popiah
at 01-03, Blk 22 Toa Payoh Lor 7 by 4.30pm.
Note what they replaced the expensive bamboo shoots
with what that still lends it a crunchy sensation,
at only one ridiculous dollar each. Some good old
fashioned HBD void deck retail therapy would be nice
just after. Finally, your last hurdle. Be at the Fried
Carrot Cake stall inside Soon Seng Coffeeshop at Blk
107 Ang Mo Kio Ave 4 by 6pm. If you like
your Chai Tow Kway chunky, mean and well fried, this
is the Master you have been waiting for.
10am: Bite into Siang Siang Chwee Kueh at
Blk 86 Bedok North St 4, Fengshan Food Centre
and you’ll understand why 1200 of their chwee
kuehs was the first to disappear within an hour when
they touted it at the Singapore Day in New York in
April.
Siang Siang Chwee Kueh
Then drown yourself in the smooth Lor Mee at Xin
Mei Xiang at Blk 51, 01-116 Old Airport Road Food
Centre by 11am. The fresh hand torn pieces
of fish topping is delightful. At the same time, indulge
in Toa Payoh Rojak which is just in front
of this Lor Mee stall at 01-108 and know
Toa Payoh Rojak
why Mr Trillin fell silent over it. Be prepared
for a half hour wait, at least. Now, load up over
at Hajah Mona Nasi Padang at 01-301, Geylang
Serai Temporary Market along Sims Ave by
12.45pm. If you are overwhelmed by the 36 dishes on
offer, just tell them what they think Makansutra foodies
would like and include the urap salad.
Hajah Mona Nasi Padang
You should walk it off and head some 600m to Guan
Hoe Soon Peranakan Restaurant at 214 Joo Chiat Road
by 1.30pm. Reward yourself in the cool aircon with
Peranakan classics like Ayam Buah Keluak and Nonya
Chap Chye with a little bowl of rice. By now, if you
still can, or feel the need to, walk and discover
this Katong district and wind up, about 2km away (okay,
don’t kid yourself) to Geylang Lor 29
Fried Hokkien Mee at 396 East Coast Road, Food R Us
Coffeeshop by 3.30pm.Taste and you’ll
know why Alex still does it with over charcoal fire
here.
Geylang Lor 29 Fried Hokkien Mee
The kind folks at Yeo’s Drinks, for the next
month till 19th August, will offer a matching drink
and food set at a discounted price at all these Masters
stalls. You can pick up copies of the Singapore Street
Food Masters brochure at all Singapore Visitor Centres
at Orcahrd Road and Changi Airport Terminal 1 and
2, the lucky draw counter and Newtown Hawker Centre
and the East Coast Food Village and at Makansutra
Gluttons Bay at the Espanande (refreshment stall).
What, still lounging about?
