There
are peckish times when you would mentally cruise through
your internal makan menu looking for a flavour that
will please the moment. Some dishes will simply jump
out and stop you dead in your thoughts.
Imagine, instead of sheeps, you envision chwee kueh,
followed by mee pok tah, then chicken rice, rojak,
mee goreng, pizza, roti prata , roast duck, fatty
hamburgers, sup kambing, or luak… all jumping
over the fence, one by one. Then suddenly, two platters
of something messy, all well fried up in black and
white with eggs, garlic and chai po (pickled lettuce
bits), appears and grab you.
The sensation of an internal awakening rushes up
from the stomach to the brains. You break out in a
cold shiver, the mind is dead focused, your palate
is on heightened alert and you begin to breathe deeply
and wind up panting. You hold your breath, freeze
that image, zoom in for a closer look and realise
it’s…Chai Tow Kway (Fried Carrot Cake).
Oooh, the palate takes over. Wantonly yearning for
that smooth and soft radish and rice flour cake to
envelop it, teased with black sweet soy sauce and
scrambled eggs, flavoured with garlic, salted with
chai po and freshened with spring onions, or, a white
version sans black sweet soy but replaced with pepper
and garlic instead.
Ahhh… It’s complicating. What when some
of them press bits of black mushrooms, pumpkin, yam,
Chinese sausage and hei be (dried shrimps) into it,
steam them and top it with fried shallots and coriander.
It demands that you eat it, sliced, on it own, as
it is. A soft and lightly savoury cake with all this
tasty bits creating delicious havoc on your palate
with a simple sweet chilli sauce on guard.

Mmmm…the joy of eating Chai Tow Kway or Fried
Carrot Cake, actually a misnomer, as it is made with
radish, which the Chinese considers as part of the
carrot family…that….called white carrot..,
hence…and, so….therefore…!!! zzzz….Don’t
try to intellectualise it, it is like thinking about
eating, you’re not gonna get there no matter
how smart you are.
And it is a joy to know that these cakes are imperfectly
well hand made. They vary a little in texture and
colour now and then but are more than made up for
with a consistent taste and preparation technique.
Remember, it’s about actualizing and manifestation.
You eat, therefore, you are.
| Lao Ji Cooked Food |
|
| Address
Blk 336 Smith St
01-014 Chinatown Complex Food Centre
|
Opening
Hours
5pm-7pm daily except Wednesday |
Price
From $1.50 |
The folks here has been at it for yonks. Daily, they
steam about 24 trays of their heavenly Lor Pak Ko
(radish cakes) that simply melts in your mouth. No
biting required. No joke. Just observe the daily long
queue of patient crowd that include some almost toothless
ah por (grannies) and ah peks (old uncles). It doesn’t
look much when they plonk these irregular little rectangular
blocks of Lor Pak Ko onto a styrofoam plate, smothered
with sweet and chilli sauce and sprinkled with sesame
seeds. But close your mouth onto a piece and they
softly crumble and release the rich radish and rice
flour cake flavour peppered with bits of hei be( dried
shrimps). Most customers order a combo of radish and
yam cake, which is another hit with them.
The clear all 24 trays within two hours each day.
If the queue is unbearable, then go for the shorter
dapau (takeaway) queue. Just take the pack and eat
it there.
| Carrot Cake |
|
| Address
Blk 107 Ang Mo Kio Ave4
01-164
Soon Seng Restaurant (coffee shop)
|
Opening
Hours
6pm to midnight daily. |
Price
From $1.50 |
Mr Ngerng Mui Choo doesn’t even have a proper
name for his twenty year old stall and customers don’t
care much as long as he diligently churn out his very
robust plate of Chai Tow Kway each day. This spritely
56 year old takes pain to fry every plate well, carefully
and confidently flipping and tossing, just to ensure
that they all end up as little rectangular blocks
coated with eggs, garlic, black sweet soy sauce and
chai po.
My take on his Chai Tow Kway is that it taste like,
well… Chai Tow Kway. The eggs, soy, pepper,
chai po does not mask the texture and taste of his
own-made cake. With a huge steamer behind him, he
works through 12 kilos of radish and a huge box of
rice flour just to churn out 10 huge trays of steamed
cakes ready for frying.
His version is not too oily nor soggy as he lightly
burns the radish cakes with less oil, garlic and chai
po on the huge flat wok before eggs are poured in.
Watching him wield two steel spatulas in rhythmic
motion as he fries is very reassuring and entertaining.
| Jin Ji Cooked Food |
|
|
Address
Stall 96 Maxwell Rd Food Centre |
Opening
Hours
7am-3pm daily, except Wednesdays |
Price
From $1.50 |
They switched from selling mixed economic rice sets
to selling radish cakes and Cantonese breakfast fare
some ten years ago “because less things to wash
and cook and more profitable” says stall owner
Ms Irene Wang.
They manually make and steam almost 50 little bowls
of their dense yet soft radish, yam and pumpkin cakes
each day at the stall. Their winning factor is the
value added zing…they stuff bits of mushroom,
Chinese sausage, hei be and pumpkin strips into the
cakes and top it with fried shallots and sesame seeds
which explains the queues and why they sellout daily
by 3pm.
It’s best to simply slice and makan it on its
own or pan fry them, pancake style, in little thin
slices with a hint of oil and garlic back home. I
tried and fried, as advised by Irene, and it was magnificent.
Just get it slightly browned at the sides and dunk
into their chilli. The crispy outsides primes you
well for the smooth and rich radish cake inside.