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| In our first of a series
of jalan-jalan (jalan means walk in Malay)
food tours, Makansutra brings you to East Coast. |
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Click here to load up a map of the area.
If you have two to
three hours to spare one Saturday morning, why not try
out this short tour and discover some interesting gems
located in the three parallel roads of Onan-Joo Chiat-Tembeling.
Our advice--bring a camera to capture nostalgic scenes
that you'll come across.
Begin your tour with
breakfast at 64 Joo Chiat Place, Xin Hua coffeeshop.
Fei Fei Wantan Noodles dishes out small servings
of excellent homemade noodles coated with just the right
amount of chilli and gravy sauce. Served in traditional
rooster bowls, you can finish it in four to five mouthfuls.
You can choose to sit in the coffeeshop or go al
fresco under the trees and enjoy the morning sun.
Tempted as you may be to order another bowl, remember--you're
on a food tour now, don't eat too much first, there're
lots more to fill your stomach! |
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Situated next door
is the famous Kim Choo Nonya Bak Chang (rice
dumplings prepared Nonya style). You can buy
some home or alternatively, just order a drink at the
coffeeshop and have the bak chang for breakfast
too.
Across the road is
the Changi Junk Store. Here's the place to browse
and to see how old furniture can be restored to their
former glory,.
Continue your walk
towards Joo Chiat Road and turn left at the junction
of Joo Chiat Place and Lorong 101 Changi.
As you stroll along, you'll see a 1970s barber shop
sitting right at the corner of Lorong 101 Changi
and Joo Chiat Terrace. Grab your camera and strike
a pose. In the midst of classy hair salons and dwindling
number of customers, such shops are a fast vanishing
sight. |
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Head towards Joo Chiat Road
and turn left. Here, watch how popiah skins
are made the way they should be--the traditional method
and not by some high-tech machinery. The skins are
made the old-fashioned way. Four to five busy workers
are constantly cooking the thin batter on a small,
rounded flat and heated pan. Kway Guan Huat
at 95 Joo Chiat Road is popular with East Coast
residents as well as popiah sellers because the popiah
skins are made thin, soft and fresh, still warm when
you buy them. With a shop like this, why bother to
get thick, hard and cold popiah skins from supermarkets?
Walk
along Joo Chiat Road towards East Coast Road.
When you see Joo Chiat Lane on the left, turn
and you'll be greeted by the aroma of freshly-baked
bread. Follow your nose and you'll come to Hup
Hin/ Aik Yew Bakery on the right of the road.
The friendly baker normally allows you to take a peep
and even photograph the baking process. You'll be
overwhelmed by the sight of the primitive and gigantic
stone ovens which are fuelled by diesel (used to be
wood) that has to be pumped constantly. This is a
"die, die must take" photo! Sure regret if you don't!
If any freshly baked bread or pastries are ready,
you can even pick up some and eat them straightaway.
A fresh bun is always shiok to the bite!
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Go straight towards
Tembeling Road and turn right. Just a few metres
away away, you'll see an old and quaint provision shop
at the corner of Tembeling and Koon Seng roads. Time
seems to have stood still in this dimly-lit shop--biscuits
are still sold in big containers with red cha-kia
(Chinese clogs) hanging on the wall for sale. Nowadays
where got shopowners still let you put your hands in
the biscuit containers and choose what you like to buy?
As for the cha-kia, I can guarantee that it'll
definitely be cheaper than those sold at the touristy
shops in Chinatown.
Just a few steps ahead,
you'll see a signboard in blue, red, yellow and white
telling you that "The Shophouse" is on the right.
Tucked away in a quiet
corner at the end of the lane is actually a shop selling
Indonesian (especially Javanese) furniture. If you like
Indonesian wooden furniture, you'll find some interesting
pieces resting in this airy shophouse.
Exit via the carpark
and walk towards Joo Chiat Road, in the direction
of East Coast Road. Turn right when you see Onan
Road and turn right again. Move along till you reach
near the end of the road, and you'll see Hoon Bee
coffeeshop. After all that walking, it's time for
Joo Chiat Prawn Mee! A $3 serving will give
you three medium-sized prawns with two pieces of tender
pork ribs, garnished with a generous sprinkling of fried
shallots. If you want big prawns, just pay more lah! |
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Ready to move on?
Back track towards Joo Chiat Road again. Pick
up cookies at Kimzara, 452 Joo Chiat Road
or durian puffs at Puteri Mas, unit number
475. As you come to the crossroads of Joo Chiat
and East Coast roads, turn right.
If you're still feeling
greedy for more food, the Tau Kwa Pau (beancurd
with stuffings) at Hock Ann Eating house is a
must-try. A rare find these days, you get a combination
of minced meat with cucumber and coriander stuffed in
a fried beancurd skin, served with a special sauce.
To end the tour, just
walk straight ahead and you'll see the famous red
house confectionery. Want to experience what high
tea was like in the 60s? Just try it out here! Order
your coffee/tea, get the sponge cakes or Swiss
rolls, soak in the atmosphere and rest your tired
legs. Even the people manning the shop look like they've
been working here since the sixties. Enjoy this last
stop, because once it's closed in the near future (due
to the lifting of rent control), you'll regret for life
that you had never visited this popular landmark.
Pictures by Wesley
Loh
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