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Penang Hawkers' Fare @ York
White Rose Cafe, York Hotel
Tel: 6737 0511 ext 1156
March 11-27, from noon to 2.30pm, and 6.30pm to 10pm daily. $21.80+++ (adult),$17.80+++ (child below 12 years)
ONE surely can't fault this tagline - Simply Authentic Since 1986 - because York Hotel rules the market where Penang hawker fare is concerned. Unlike how other hotels tend to do it, which is to get the hotel's resident chefs to make 'lookalike and soundalike' Penang dishes, York hotel flies in the Penang hawkers themselves to cook up a yummy storm.
So, the first instalment of this year's thrice-a-year promotion features the usual favourites. For those who want to know where exactly the hawkers are from in Penang - because, yes, that makes a difference - the Char Kway Teow hawker is from the Tanjung Bungah part of the island. Nice wok fragrance, although overall, the taste is slightly on the bland side.
Highly recommended are dishes like Penang lor bak, an assortment of fried finger food like shrimp and meats (which one normally finds at the economy bee hoon stalls here) which have lovely, light and crunchy batter and come with a sweetish chilli and starchy savoury dip.
The prawn noodles have rich stock, so do go the whole hog to add in some fat and juicy deep-fried lard bits. The sardine-rich laksa - from the famous Lorong Selamat stall - also has the right sourish zing to it, nicely tempered with the gooey prawn paste which the hawker swirls on top of your soup.
For those who can't get enough of that prawn paste they can find oodles of it mixed in with the cuttlefish kangkong and Penang rojak. For these two dishes, the sauce makes all the difference, and it's done right. The kway teow soup is a calming so-so dish, if your palate is feeling a bit overwhelmed by the mixture of tastes so far.
Round up your meal with Swatow Lane's frothy ice kachang with melt-in-the-mouth kidney beans, and here's a tip: ask for a mix of the sarsi syrup (which might be tucked away from sight, on request only) with the red syrup, which is how locals back in Penang like in their ice kachang. The chendol's not great, but the palm sugar is yummy. Last but not least, the crunchy and peanutty ban chang kueh goes well with the well-pulled teh tarik. - By Cheah Ui-Hoon

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