Going retro - A hainanese beacon in Siglap

The east has always been known to be a treasure of eating haunts. From laksa and tau-kua pau at East Coast Road to Thai olive rice and sushi near Siglap Road, your gastronomic adventures in this part of Singapore can be a terribly enjoyable yet mind-boggling experience.

Of late, there has been a minor revolution of eating establishments along Upper East Coast Road near the junction of Siglap Road. This once sleepy corner of the east which used to be lined with coffee shops, roti prata joints and provision stalls, is now dotted with trendy restaurants and wine bars. At any time of the day, it is crowded with the hip and trendy as well as East Coast residents.

We decided on retro one day to experience this little gem of a 35-year old eating establishment right in the heart of the trendy Siglap area.

The Jin Wee coffee shop exists in an old world charm of its own in modern day Siglap. Situated right across from the Haagen Daz ice cream café, the Tan family has been selling their time tested hainanese cze-cha food for the last 35 years. With tacky glazed ceramic tiles and a cigarette shelf cum cashier sited below the staircase, the fluorescent glow of lights above give it a genuine Singapore timeless appeal. "The sea used to be right behind us," a youthful thirty-something Ms Tan recalled, pointing towards the ECP. She grew up helping in the restaurant and is now a kitchen staff. This family style coffee shop restaurant is run in true family tradition…honesty, fairness and good-ol' home cooked flavours.

The five of us have never eaten at Jin Wee before. So it was with some trepidation that we sat down to order. A quick look around and the decision was easily made …we just ordered the dishes that were on practically every table! They were the classic Hainanese pork chops in tomato sauce, fried fish in black soy sauce, bitter gourd soup and meat omelette.

We saw some canned ter-ka (stewed pork trotters) and requested for ter-ka beehoon. It was not in their regular menu but they happily obliged. Save for the omelette and the soup, which were fail safe home cooked food at above regular standards, the rest were a delight.The pork chops, coated in thin batter, were tender and the vinegar in the tomato sauce did not sting. The fried fish was, in the words of one makanmata, "I should get my mother to try this style, the sauce just tastes different from the usual."(Her mother operates a cooked food stall in town.) It was well fried and parts of the fins were cracker crispy. The black soy sauce not only complemented the fish, it was so tasty on its own that you can just eat plain rice with the sauce. The ter-ka beehoon was pleasant only because you can't go wrong with a can of ter-ka with fried beehoon. Frankly, I have had better Hokkien versions.

But there is something rare and uniquely warm here. Ms Tan, who is the chef, or any of her relatives working in the shop, will gladly whip up a meal based on your budget. "A lot of the working class folks gather here for a little makan party and tells us that $5-$6 per head is all they can afford. So we help out lor! We will cook a little feast based on their budget," revealed Ms Tan. It was this warmth that I received when I suggested photography in their kitchen. Shy…but warm and friendly..

Greed overcame me when I saw her dishing out a plate of stuffed tofu fritters in egg sauce. Reluctantly, because I had eaten too much already, but promptly upon request, they served a small tasting portion for us. The tofu with minced meat, water chestnuts and carrots was good even on a full stomach.

It did not let us down and neither did the folks at Jin Wee. And to top it off, the bill was only $34 for all six dishes.

 

Photos and story by KF Seetoh