Geylang Quickie

At Geylang, Singapore’s notorious red light district, lust and passion can lead to hunger for the flesh. That goes on at the even numbered lorongs (streets) off Geylang Road. But even if you are not that odd, I’ll advise you to stay on the odd side. For across the road, right from Lorong 1, 3, 5 all the way to Lorong 39, lies one of our best night eating experiences, a local best kept secret.

Nestled between this stretch of the longest road in Singapore (from Geylang to Changi Road), a true treasure trove of local cuisine and culture beckons.

Let’s start at 117 Geylang Road (between Lorong 1 and 3). Moi Lum Restaurant serves the meanest classic Cantonese fried chicken in Singapore. They began way back in Tanjong Pagar in the 70’s. Then conservation shophouses were unheard of. It was a quaint little restaurant that had only five tables and a ridiculous waiting list every night. Their backyard dried chicken will only be deep fried when the chef felt it was just dry enough. You can only order them whole, served with crackers, salt and lime – even if you eat alone. Their other dishes are generally above average.

The Village Wok, (No 10, Lorong 3), is one of the new generation no frills cze cha restaurants (street rstaurants) where the nightly queue of diners consistently order their pating fish, the oyster noodles and the tofu nuggets. And if you fancy some Thigh…I mean Thai, then Diandin Leluk at 221 Geylang Road (near Lorong 7) sizzles. Their clear or chilli tom yum, glass noodle crabs and grilled pork are just some of the cheap and ridiculously tasty dishes they offer. They average S$4 to S$14 per dish.

If frog legs mean protein to you, then the New Lai Lai Hong Yun coffee shop at the junction of Lorong 9 is a makan (eating) club you can join. For among the patient 30 odd tables of diners waiting for their regular fix of a pot of dried chilli kungpo (hot and spicy) frog legs with the accompanying pot of light plain porridge, is a motley crowd of local families, yuppies in their beamers and Lorong 18 regulars. A scoop of the frog legs and kungpo sauce mixed into the porridge will send you heaven- wards.

Over at Lorong 29 (549 Geylang Road), pork satay comes with the fast disappearing pineapple sauce. Kwong’s Satay goes for 35 cents a stick and his peanut sauce comes mixed with pineapple puree. And if request, they will give you a bowl of pure pineapple sauce. Right next to Kwong’s, is a chap selling prawn noodles. He fries it with so much gusto that at $5 a plate (a little pricier than most), the rich flavour more than makes up for the wait and price. He fries the prawns with shells and head intact for the extra pungence.

Now comes Sin Huat Eating House at the junction of Lorong 35. Chef Danny has won a culinary award for his crab beehoon. His trademark is his legendary seafood dishes – all cooked and served fresh. He does not even have a fridge for his seafood. They are all kept alive in the numerous fish tanks that separate the eating area from his kitchen. Be warned that his dishes are a tad pricey and is comparable to some restaurant prices. And waiting time, especially for his signature crab beehoon- is a minimum of 40 minutes! His coffee shop restaurant comes with a wine bar – which is absolutely rare!.

Lastly but not at the least, and if you are a taste pervert, try the smelly beancurd at 795 Geylang Road. Mini Star Fermented Beancurd was originally from Chinatown Complex. It was so stinky that the neighbouring stalls complained and his stall was vandalised. You will understand why when you realise that smelly beancurd is prepared by fermenting them with fish innards, salt, soy beans and some spices for a few days before they are removed and deep fried!

Eating in Geylang is basically an adventure, even to us at Makansutra, oddly enough. We are constantly discovering new eating spots and witnessing old ones go and can vouch that this place is constantly evolving and is exciting – for food lovers!

Picture and story by kf ssetoh
Videography by Irwan