Mooncakes

Type of Food:
Mooncakes
Where From:

Pine Court at the Mandarin Singapore
Shang Palace at the Shangri-La
Empress Room at the Raffles Hotel
Goodwood Park Hotel
Xin Cuisine at Concorde Hotel
Crown Prince Hotel
Marriott Hotel
East Ocean Seafood Restaurant
Chinatown Tai Chong Kok Confectionery at Banda St
Leung San Hong Kong Pastry at Sago St
Tai Thong Cake Shop at Mosque St
Tong Heng at South Bridge Road

Test date:
4 Sep 1999

The Lowdown:

It's time of the year where mooncakes are selling at every corner of Singapore. Though the Mooncake Festival is on 24 September, many hotels, restaurants and confectionery shops have started selling since late August. Every year, the competition gets stiffer with newer and more novel ideas of presenting mooncakes in every imaginable edible form. There are so many adulterated forms of mooncakes out in the market now and sometimes you just wonder which to try. Some have become a perennial favourite that they may join the stable of traditional mooncakes soon (like the flaky pastry with yam filling) while the others are just simply experiments--they come and go with no staying power.

With so many to choose from, where should you buy your mooncakes from? To try and give makankakis (food buddies) some good recommendations, Makansutra decides to do a blind taste test with seven makanmatas (food police) on 48 (so precise huh!) mooncakes from 12 establishments all at one sitting. At the end of the 3-hour test, with a bloated stomach from all the mooncakes and Chinese tea, the exhausted makanmatas (believe us, eating can be hard work!) present you with our recommendations.

Before we start, just to give an introduction-- mooncakes are usually perceived to be very sweet stuff. Surprisingly in this blind test, we discover that generally, mooncakes nowadays are just pleasantly sweet and not overloaded with sugar. So, even if you don't have a sweet tooth, you can still enjoy feasting on our recommendations.

Pine Court

The Chempedak with Lotus Seed Paste is an interesting concoction with a unique taste. Somehow, the chempedak manages to blend in quite well with the taste of the lotus paste and we rather like it. It gets an almost unanimous 2-chopstick rating.

The Millenium Mooncake is another favourite. We wonder why the name "millenium" as it is just the usual lotus paste with egg yolk. Though slightly oily, it gets a 2- chopstick for its smooth texture. Fancy liquor in your mooncake? The Snow Skin with Marnier has a subtle liquor taste and is graded 1 ½ -chopstick.

 

Shang Palace

The most outstanding mooncake among its selection is the Assorted Nuts with Kum Toy (Chinese ham)-with a 2-chopstick rating. The pastry is thin and filled with tasty nuts and Chinese ham bits.

 

Empress Room

The Mini Snow-Skin Mooncake with Champagne Truffle & Ganache and Mini Snow-Skin Mooncake with Cream Cheese and Gold Raisins (2-chopstick each) are so delightful though they taste nothing like Chinese mooncakes, more like Western desserts. We wonder if these are induction mooncakes made for the ang mohs (Westerners) to introduce their first taste to mooncakes?

Now comes the "die, die must try" rating of 3-chopstick! The Baked Mini Mooncake with Yolk and Macadamia Nuts is wonderful with a thin pastry covering very smooth filling. Moreover, because it's a mini size, you don't feel too "jer-luck" (sick of eating) eating the whole piece.

 

Goodwood Park Hotel

Generally, all the mooncakes from Goodwood Park have great lotus seed paste filling but not-so-great pastry which is dry and slightly thick. The 100th Anniversary Mooncake ( Lotus Seed Paste with Six Yolks) looks like a small cake with the picture of Goodwood Park Hotel lightly engraved on the top. We give a rating of 2-chopstick for all the lotus seed paste filling but no marks for the pastry. Hence, overall rating for the mooncakes with lotus seed paste is 1-chopstick. But don't bother to try those with durian paste. Though Goodwood Park is famous for its durian cakes and puffs, eating its mooncake with durian paste is like eating durian kueh (cake) from Malaysia.

 

 

Xin Cuisine

Not really popular for its mooncakes, we are surprised at the quality of some of its mooncakes. Touted as the bestseller from the restaurant, the Single Yolk Mini Egg Custard Mooncake gets a 1 ½ -chopstick rating. The egg custard filling is quite fragrant but the pastry is a little dry which tastes almost biscuit-like. The Double Yolk Lotus Seed Paste Golden Mooncake is also a favourite which gain a 2 ½ chopstick rating.

The Double Yolk Snow Skin Golden Mooncake gets the thumbs-up from the makanmatas for its smooth filling with a thin pastry of good texture. It has the best snow skin texture among all the snow skins we have tried with a slight aromatic taste of pandan leaves. So, if you like snow skin, this is a "die, die must try" 3-chopstick mooncake for this coming festival.

 

Crown Prince Hotel

According to sources from the food & beverage (F & B) industry, the famous flaky skin with yam paste mooncake from Crown Prince Hotel is a number one seller in Singapore. Its annual turnover for mooncakes in this one-month alone is huge enough to make everyone in the F&B industry go green with envy. That's why the Crown Prince Hotel's original flaky skin is celebrating its 10th successful year this year.
Despite the efforts of others to try and introduce their own versions of the flaky pastry, somehow Crown Prince manages to keep its top spot. Besides the usual Teochew-style Yam Paste and White Lotus Paste ( 2-chopstick rating each), a new Pumpkin with Yam Paste is introduced this year to celebrate its 10th year. Biting into this mooncake is like eating Or Nee (famous Teochew dessert of yam paste) itself. The pumpkin and yam paste is moist enough for the dry and flaky pastry. It receives a 3-chopstick rating for its delightful taste.

Marriott Hotel

It offers the traditional Lotus Seed Paste with Yolk and does it so well that most makanmatas give it 2-chopstick for its good combination of smooth paste and light pastry.

 

East Ocean Seafood Restaurant

We just have to try its mooncakes after many rave reviews last year. But sad to say, we have to tell you to :"FORGET IT!" The filling is so hard that all the mooncakes fail the test straightaway!

 

Chinatown Tai Chong Kok Confectionery at Banda St

This is a household name in traditional mooncakes but gauging from the various types that we try, we suspect that the standard has dropped. The pastry is generally thin but dry to the taste. The Red Bean filling is so dry that it becomes powdery to the bite. The Green Bean Paste gets 1-chopstick as it provides a nice change for its salty filling. The usual mooncake with Lotus Seed Paste (with or without yolks) gets an acceptable 1-chopstick rating. The Assorted Nuts with Chinese Ham fares better (2-chopstick) as the filling has a good flavour and the nuts are so tightly packed together in the mooncake.

 

Leung San Hong Kong Pastry at Sago St

Sells great Hong Kong dim sum delicacies but fail miserably in mooncakes. They are all dry and hard.

 

Tai Thong Cake Shop at Mosque St

Another household name in traditional mooncakes and most of its selection taste better than Tai Chong Kok. The overall rating for its mooncakes is 1 ½ -chopstick. The best is the Mooncake with Lotus Seed Paste and Yolk (2 ½- chopstick). The pastry is not dry, in fact, it is a little moist and soft with smooth and slightly wet lotus seed paste.

 

Tong Heng at South Bridge Road

Its salty Mooncake with Green Bean Paste (2- chopstick) is better than the one from Tai Chong Kok as the texture of the paste is better and tastier. If you like Mooncake with Assorted Nuts and Chinese ham, then you "die, die must try" this one. It is absolutely shiok (satisfying) to the bite! Crunchy nuts with big pieces of Chinese ham give a great sweet and salty taste combination. Needless to say, it gets a 3-chopstick rating!

 

Which one will you try?

After reading all these lengthy recommendations, have you made up your mind on what to buy for this coming Mooncake Festival? Or are you feeling more blur (confused) than before?

 

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