Their presentation is simple and the décor almost naïve. PVC and steel chairs, mirrored walls, white table cloths and pink serviettes attack the left brain. Bell bottoms would complete the visuals charmingly and Theresa Teng's music would set the mood nicely.

But of course, their food would render all this atmosphere insignificant - even if they blared Abba over the speakers.

 

Singapura Restaurant's brand of Foochow food with a Singapore twist is somewhat of an icon in the gastronomic circle. Their specialty, the cold crab, is a delight borne out of passion. It's late founder, Mr Tang Eng Seng, who started Li Do Restaurant in the 70's , decided to experiment with crab dishes. He realised that certain types of crabs had exquisitely tasting roe. He tried a variety of crabs and had thought that he found his answer in the Vietnam roe crabs. But it was the yellow roe Sri Lanka crabs that did the trick. Five years ago, together with his daughter Valerie, they started Singapura Restaurant. Sited on the second floor of an old housing block along Selegie Rd, it has been attracting a regular flow of makankakis (food fans).

It is easy to understand why. The prawn roll we tried had such a crunchy and resilient texture which came from fresh tiger prawns and carrots. The skin wrap used, instead of the compromising bean curd skin, was pig's caul. It has to be carefully washed in Hua Tiao wine to eliminate any odour. Although they spare no thought here for the health conscious and the squirmish , orthodox makankakis would have it no other way. Fried and light to the taste and at $12, it was a delight.

A classic fish head dish, the Steamed Fish Head, was an element in simplicity. As with all fish dishes, freshness is non-negotiable. The ikan kurau fish head was steamed with tau-cheo (bean sauce), chai -po (pickled vegetables) and garlic. The tangy bite comes from plum pulp and lime juice.

 

I am never too big a fan of pork ribs. Somehow no one has managed to get the texture and marinate right. But their Honey Pork Ribs ($9) are beginning to change all that. Lovingly marinated in honey, cloves, cinnamon and five spice powder, they are first steamed and then deep fried. The golden dark brown ribs are of a decent length and the meat just slips off the bone like it was artificially inserted in the first place!

You cannot leave a Foochow restaurant without trying their Foochow meatballs. Essentially a doughy fishball with minced meat filling, theirs did not, like others, skimp on the filling although the soup was a tad salty. Another classic Foochow dish is the Red Wine Chicken in claypot. Pieces of the fowl is simmered in fermented rice wine and is served with tanghoon (glass noodles) and chinese mushrooms. The dish was rather strongly perfumed with the ricewine as the case should be. Overall it was a nice dish to warm the stomach.

But alas, the Cold Crabs. Served chilled, they are essentially eaten for the heavenly yellow roe just beneath its top shell. Valerie personally picks out the crabs from her suppliers and a lot of luck, skill and trust goes into selecting the yellow roe crabs. She buys about 25 kilos of it daily. A family secret preparation technique, the crabs are steamed in herbs, cooled then chilled before serving. A technique, she say, brings out the full pungency of the roe. If you love exotic cheese, you'll love what Valerie does to these crabs. If that's not good enough, their stinging own- made chilli sauce with send you to Venus. Priced at $3.20 per 100grams for the normal crabs and $3.80 for the "double shell" version, you cannot claim to have visited Singapura Restaurant if you did not try their cold crabs.

Where:	Singapura Restaurant Blk 9 #01-31 Selegie Rd Tel 336 3255
Food Rating:	Excellent
Cold Crab Rating:	Die Die Must Try!