The Mekong Fried Fish
I have no idea, till
this day, what fish it was. But it was a blessing
that it wasn't completely scaled when they
eventually fried them. You see, they did it
so well that these fried bits of scales were
like mini keropok (crackers) tucked into the
crispiest skin on the juiciest and freshest
fish ever - no fancy marinate or unpronounceable
sauce, just beautifully fried and sitting
on its own. I suspected it belonged to the
tilapia family. It was so super delicious,
my travelling companion Philip and I ordered
two servings.
This pleasant
lunch was actually part of a Mekong Delta cruise.
We boarded the cruise in My Tho town, 70 km
outside the very predictable Ho Chi Minh city
in Vietnam, not knowing what to expect. The
fare for this private outing was reasonable
- by Singapore prices. But with the kind of
over-the-top attention and service showered
upon us, I suspected we might have been their
meal ticket for the week.
So we chugged
down the river, in this oversized river sampan
much like the river taxis in Bangkok's Chaophraya
River. Except this was the Mekong, a lot more
fertile and life giving. The soil on its banks
was so fertile that if you dropped an M&M
chocolate button, cocoa plants will probably
grow on the spot. It also meant half a day of
cruise with the smell of fertile mud permeating
the air. And if you were a foodie with me on
board, worse, a Singaporean foodie, then the
floating market, the churches and temples, the
quaint souvenir shops disguised as teahouses,
the riverside farms and war relics won't mean
much. Lunch, in this case, wasn't just a pleasant
surprise, but the absolute highlight.
We pulled up
by what looked like someone's house and fruit
orchard by the banks that had a pretty little
pavilion adjacent to the main building that
overlooked the river. That, was our lunch venue.
Even if they had just served us pho (Vietnamese
beef noodles) or cha gio (spring rolls), it
would have been beautiful eating it barefoot
and seated on its wooded floor, as we were.
But the heavens were kind, after the pho and
cha gio, the piece-de-resistance arrived - the
fried fish. It sat upright on the plate, fins
skywards, garnished with curled spring onions
and propped up by hidden chopsticks. It came
with bang tranhg (rice paper skins), lettuce,
mint leaves and a heavenly fish sauce dip. The
host relieved us of our bewilderment -he peeled
a bit off the smoking hot fried fish with some
crispy skin and wrapped it in a leaf of lettuce
with a small sprig of mint leaves. Then he gingerly
wrapped it in a moistened bang tranhg, dipped
it in the beckoning sauce and yanked it before
my salivating mouth - smoke from fish still
intact.
Say what you
like, but after that lunch (we had two of that
fish, by the way), everything was hunky-dory.
The Mekong didn't smell, the churches were beautiful
and the souvenirs were exotic. It was definitely
the fish. It knew Philip and I were food fusspots
from Singapore and decided to silence us with
her scrumptious ways. It worked - so well that
in my semi-conscious state of feeding frenzy,
I forgot to take a picture of the rice skin
fish roll!
Picture essay and words by kfseetoh
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